Have you ever made pants that were less than pleasing? I have. Somehow the template used by the "Big Four" pattern companies doesn't work on me, and probably on a lot more women. In my case, the back waist bags outward and rides much lower than a typical pair of hip huggers. (I'm not bashing the Big Four, in general I have had a lot of success with all kinds of patterns, except for pants!)
I like the way Talbot's pants fit. A visitor to our shop had been in charge of Talbot's sizing when the company modernized and updated sizing a few years back. I don't recall how the subject came up, but she explained a little about how the adjustments were made for "real women." I didn't have time to plot it out on paper at the time...
So a little while ago I started to look for "solutions." I came upon Lekala, a Russian pattern company that sells semi-custom pattern blocks made to your measurements. They are very inexpensive ($2.49 or so). You enter a set of measurements (do the basic measurements or for more precise fit enter more on their optional template). I ordered pattern #5003, a download.
Today I sewed a mock up from lining. It fit, so I went on to make a pair of nicely fitted pants. I used the mock up as the half lining for my pants. I'm happy. They fit like Talbot's, but this particular pair is cut higher in the waist. I'd like it just a little lower. Maybe next time I'll do it without the waistband, and just make a waist facing instead. But this is a good, wearable pair of pants for fall.
This is the line drawing of Lekala #5003. Lekala assumes some sewing knowledge, so their directions are pretty basic, and they need some work on their American English translation. If anyone is interested in a tutorial, please let me know and I'll post one so you can begin your pants sewing adventure!
107A East Davis Street