All I learned about couture methods (not much) was from Madam Simone and Madam Therese Andree.
I think my next teacher, when I decide to learn in earnest about couture, will be Claire Shaeffer. But I haven't much time to decide, because the last of her famous Sewfari workshop/classes are filling up.
So, in the meantime, I found her on Facebook and viewed a video she had posted from the Chanel website.
If you have time to watch it, notice a few things.
You can get lessons on "French jackets" (which are cleverly not referred to as "Chanel"for trademark reasons), but many times the result seems overworked. Not that 130 hours or so on a jacket isn't a lot of work! It is a matter of experience and a certain light touch to be able to make a jacket that looks as casual and yet perfectly fitted as the real thing.
A few differences. All those buttons and all that braid can make a jacket look militaristic. One reason Chanel jackets look relaxed is that the braid is applied following the natural contour of the fabric. Since the fabrics are usually nubby, the braid does not look like it was applied to a piece of cardboard. If you can look carefully, the pockets are not mirror image perfect nor are they perfectly flat. Everything lies, relaxed, and has enough "give" in the application to allow the human body to wear the jacket, and not the jacket to wear the person.
That's why some of the real jackets have survived generations of women who have worn then first as suits, then donned them over chiffon dresses, and then at last with jeans.
All that being said, I can't explain how it's done. I just know it when I see it.
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